Dropped the juniors at school and headed out for a wave.
Got a few nice ones at ‘the local’ and possibly the best righthander in many months. Had the stoke from just 1 wave where I actually made 3 successful re-entries.
Water was perfect.
Crowd was light.
Heard a few guys talking about custom boards and how many local shapers wont even stop to talk with their customer. Sounds typical ‘rat race’ BS.
If you want an awesome specialised quality board from a unique boardshaper that’s a top bloke lookup Grant Miller.